There are places around Auckland that feel much further away than they actually are. The Āwhitu Peninsula is one of them. Head south towards Waiuku, then follow the peninsula north, and the city gives way to winding roads, farmland and glimpses of the Manukau Harbour.
It’s a curious journey: driving south out of Auckland, then turning north to explore the land across the water. Close to home, but sufficiently removed to feel like a proper outing.
I’d visited before, but there was a good reason to return. The road to the Manukau Heads Lighthouse had reopened since my last trip, putting this spectacular corner of the peninsula back within reach.
Cyclone Gabrielle caused a major landslip in 2023, severing Manukau Heads Road and cutting off public access to the lighthouse. A new section of road was eventually built away from the unstable slope, restoring access in August 2025 after roughly two and a half years.
It was good to be able to get out there again. The lighthouse overlooks the entrance to the Manukau Harbour, a place where the scale of the landscape encourages you to stop and spend some time looking. Water, headlands and sky compete for your attention.
The building itself is a reconstruction of the original 1874 lighthouse, opened in 2006 following considerable community effort. It houses the historic lens installed in the original lighthouse in 1929—a tangible connection to the people who once helped guide ships through these waters.
That maritime history includes tragedy. HMS Orpheus was wrecked on the Manukau Bar in 1863, with the loss of 189 lives. Looking across the harbour entrance, it’s sobering to think about what happened here.
My own encounter with the harbour was considerably less historic, although it did involve an aircraft developing an inconvenient interest in the sea.
At Grahams Beach, I got the drone out and managed to capture some footage. For a while, everything went according to plan. Then the wind decided to take my drone out to sea.
And there it sat, looking at me. About a metre out of reach.
A metre is a very small distance in most circumstances. When it separates you from your drone over seawater, it becomes quite significant. Close enough to feel that you ought to be able to do something about it. Far enough to make that feeling thoroughly unhelpful.
I’d wanted a different perspective on Grahams Beach. I hadn’t intended that perspective to include watching my own camera hover just beyond my grasp.
Still, there was footage, so the aerial photography ambitions weren’t entirely misplaced. The wind simply felt it should have some editorial input.
Settlers Rest Cafe deserves a mention, too. It’s a lovely spot to pause during a wander around the peninsula, and a welcome addition to the day. Allow some time for it between exploring the coastline and negotiating with your airborne possessions.
That little drone episode aside, Āwhitu is a rewarding place to explore. The journey gives you reasons to slow down: harbour views between the hills, stretches of open farmland and side roads leading towards the water. It suits an unhurried day, with time to stop wherever something catches your eye.
With access to the lighthouse restored, there’s another good reason to make the trip. I was pleased to return—and pleased to get some drone footage along the way.
Although next time, I’d prefer the camera to remain on speaking terms with its owner.⋮⋮⋮⋮
